Find out where to eat, sleep, party and escape the hustle and bustle in our insider guide to the Senegalese capital The beauty of Dakar, a city that sprawls across the Cap-Vert peninsula in a jumble of villages and former French colonial towns, comes not from its architecture, but from its people and the atmosphere they create. Hot, dusty and derelict streets are brought to life by locals parading in an explosion of brightly-coloured fabrics and sharply-tailored suits. Roads are often choked with traffic, but there’s a buzz in the constant chatter and giggling of workers on the buses and in the sept places taxis. In the markets and the Medina, there’s a riot of noise and smells. And in the air, there’s a constant soundtrack of raucous jazzed-up Senegalese pop. It can be an exhausting place to negotiate, but to escape the hustle and bustle for, say, the sedate confines of Club Med in the opulent suburb of Les Almadies 5km from the city centre, is to miss the point – and the warmth of the place. Where to stay Steer clear of the pricey hotels around the buzzing place d’Independence, where the noise is constant and sleeping is seen as indulgent. Instead, within easy reach by bus or taxi, Hotel du Phare is located down a quiet, sandy side street in the coast-hugging district of Les Mamelles. The pastel painted walls, comfy couches and book-lined shelves lend a homely atmosphere, and the excellent food fuses West African and Mediterranean flavours – poulet aigre doux, for example, is tender spiced chicken in a sweet, tangy sauce. •